By:
Lt Gen (R) Sardar Hasan Azhar Hayat
MD Pakistan Land Port Authority
Ex. MD Green Tourism Pvt. Ltd
Sunday morning after my coffee and book time, I requested Mr Dara, who works in the Punjab Archaeology department, that I want to visit him. He works in Kalar Kahar but lives inside Taxila Museum compound. I have been hearing about his collection for long. Sunday traffic was not busy and we reached Taxila museum in no time; as I entered the museum gate I could see a group of students taking pictures in front of the main museum! Nothing wrong with it, but nowadays our Generation Z is more interested in posing than in knowledge – maybe I am also influenced 😃 Anyway, I am used to the museum and, passing by George Marshall cottage, went straight to the 19th century cottage, the residence of Mr Dara – but I knew this was the old Taxila museum building. A small door leads you to a courtyard with an old tiled floor and benches under an old overhanging garden. An old double V door led me to a small room.
As I entered, the room mesmerised me, and I was received by Mr Dara. I forgot his presence and my eyes were on the wall, scanning instruments hung all over — with little knowledge I was searching for Rababs, Sitars, drums, and all I knew about musical instruments! I have two in my collection which I got from Xinjiang, China. As my eyes settled, I sat down on a chair in the room over an old Bokhara carpet. It felt unfair that this huge collection, gathered over 40 years, was spilling into his washroom due to lack of space.
Dara is an interesting personality! My first question was whether he sings, and he said he is a great fan of Mehdi Hassan and has been listening to him live over the years. I said, “Can I invite you?” and he said it would be a pleasure — art and music have deep roots, he said. I was curious and asked what made him collect these instruments; understandably it’s a passion, like I collect ashtrays, but musical instruments seemed unusual. He said that in his early years in the Archaeology department, while posted in Lahore, he started purchasing them, and then it continued.
I wanted him to speak more, so I asked him how music is related to life. He explained that religion, art and music are intertwined — the history of musicology goes back 5,000 years, and the charms of Buddhism are all about music, which is how Gandhara is linked to music. In the notes *sa re ga ma pa*, he believes “ga” refers to Gandhara — interesting. He mentioned the dancing girl of Mohenjodaro (now in India) and the Dancing Shiva at Harappa; Taxila, Peshawar and Swat show telltale signs from the 3rd to 7th century CE. From the 12th century, contemporary music took root, moving from temples to Muslim courts, becoming a pleasure of Mughal India.
The instruments range from ancient to modern times, spanning stringed, wind, and gong categories. He has around 800 of them in total. He also mentioned music paintings and miniatures he collected over time — sadly, these instruments are diminishing, and the artisans who make them have no patronage; it is a dying art. He mentioned a wind instrument called the Borindo, akin to the Chinese Pipa, found in Sindh, and the Rabab — both enlisted by UNESCO this year. On a personal note, he said an Ambassador in Islamabad had wanted to buy all his instruments for USD 1 million. This could have earned him a fortune, but he refused! He also mentioned that the Royal Albert Hall wants to display his collection in Canada. I asked him how many people have seen the collection, and he said many, but no one has helped display it in a museum — everyone wants it gifted, perhaps to PNCA or others, but Mr Dara wants to pursue it as a source of income and exhibition after retirement.
I remember once Mr Duraiz from Hum TV wanted to help open a museum, along with local people like Mr Ali Haider Zaman — why not, since this could take up a spacious place, and every instrument has a history. I asked him which the oldest instrument was; he mentioned a drum once placed over grains, and a trumpet from Tatar times used as a call to duty. A small drum came from Hindu music, and there were many more, each specific to a culture! He related many instruments to the East, Far East and Europe, describing this as a fine form of music diplomacy, since music is pursued and loved in so many countries. He also mentioned that a lot is being written on music now, but hardly in Pakistan — whereas in Changan, China, there is a drummer’s room and a place displaying pictures and paintings of Pakistani musical instruments! This is an unknown art and a unique connection. I asked if his desire to collect more continues, and he said yes — Lahore is a big market, and he is eyeing seven more instruments held by private collectors. After spending good time over a cup of tea, we said goodbye to Dara, having seen his remarkable collection! What we missed was his collection of books, which are in Lahore. I did not feel the heat of the mid-summer day under the fan — the construction, transformed as it has been from a 19th century hut, still stayed cool inside. Saying goodbye to Mr Dara, we moved out, thinking I wish the private sector could hold his hand.
As I was leaving the compound, I was stopped by the Deputy Director of Archaeology, in charge of Taxila museum, who offered me a cup of tea. I apologised to him for trespassing, as my purpose was only to see the musical instruments! But on his insistence, I stayed — Mr Dogar wanted me to see the Taxila museum reserves, something I had been able to explore two years back when the store was opened after 13 years! It was honestly a pleasant surprise to see the stacking and shelves, with dehumidifying machines at work. The DD also took me around the museum — it is always a pleasure to see so many foreigners around. We also saw the site where a new building will come up for the museum in the same architectural style; if done well, it could be an excellent addition. We discussed the most important role of a museum that is fresh excavation and the DD told me about his efforts at Bhir Mound. This is a separate subject and one I will keep exploring. My ears were still imagining the sound of this wonderful collection! This needs to be showcased to the world — what a history we have, even in music and sound. It reminded me of a quiet evening in Auckland and Vienna, where you could find no rush after sunset, only orchestra! So much talent exists around to explore in Pakistan.
I left for Mohra Muradu to see a house being built by a friend, Mr Ali Haider Zaman, who lives in Canada but is building a house in his village — one he has not yet seen himself. Such a love for Pakistan, which does not let you lose your roots a hot summer Sunday, well spent.
